Zagreb, Croatia

Zagreb - The City Of all of the main cities affected by the messy split up of Yugoslavia, Zagreb is one of the winners. The city bears very little sign of the trouble and strife that affected the country for so long and is now a fast growing city that can compete in terms of commerce with places such as Budapest, Bratislava and Bucharest. Croatia is still on track to join the EU in 2009 after passing the preliminary tests in 2004.

The city currently has a population of just over 750,000, with over 1million people in the whole metropolitan area. Over 90% of the citizens are Croats, with a minority of Serbs (2%), Bosnians (1%) and Slovenians (1%). The country is ruled by President Stjepan, who has been in power since 2000. The main issues facing the country and Zagreb in particular are slow economic growth with unemployment around 8% (national average is 18%). GDP per capita is $11,600 which is on a par with the surrounding countries.

History The city today is divided into two halves – the Upper (Gornji Grad) and Lower Town (Donji grad). Of these, the roots of the city can be traced back to the Upper town which was originally split in ownership between the clergy (the Kaptol) and the non-believers (the Gradec). As the city grew, the conflict between the two intensified until peace was restored in 1850.

The city can trace its roots back to the 11th century where it became the place of the legendary springs that fed the travelling armies of the Balkans. The name Zagreb came from the digging of the soil to find the springs. The city continued to grow and the first university of Croatia was founded here in 1669.

After the infighting had ceased in the nineteenth century, the city developed as a transport hub with the building of the first Balkans railway line that linked Budapest and Vienna in 1860. The city continued to grow in the late 19th century, and into the 20th century. During the Great War from 1914 to 1919, the land now known as Croatia was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and fought on the side of the Germans. In 1918 the kingdom of Croatia, Slovenia and Serbia formed the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. They sided with the Nazi’s in World War Two, and the land around Zagreb was a hotbed of communism and the country almost fell into civil war.
However, during the post war years, Marshal Tito can to power in Yugoslavia and turned the country into a Communist state.

During the late 1980’s after the fall of communism, Slobodan Milosevic came to power and tried to drive a wedge between the Croats and the Serbs. After some fierce fighting in and around Zagreb, the Serbs were finally pushed out of Croatia, and independence was declared in late 1991, although it wasn’t until late 1998 that the Serbs were finally driven out of Croatia.

Important Information - British Consulate – The British Embassy is located in Ivana Lucica 4, and is open Monday to Friday from 8.30am. They can be contacted by email at british.embassyzagreb@fco.gov.uk or by phone on +385 1 600 9100.

Currency – The Croatian currency is the Kuna (abbreviated to HRK). Currently there are around 11HRK to the £1. Euros are also widely accepted. ATM machines are located throughout the city and all major cards are accepted. Credit Cards are also widely accepted in most shops, hotels and restaurants although American Express is not as widely accepted as in the west. For today's rates use the Currency Converter

Electricity – Croatia operates the standard Western Europe 220v 2 pin plugs.

Emergencies – Police and security presence is quite high on the streets of Zagreb. Their presence tends to be watchful rather than active, although expect a higher involvement when the England fans are in town. If you need to contact the emergency services then dial 112 or 92 for the Police, 93 for the Fire Services or 94 for an Ambulance.

Internet Access – Most big hotels have internet access for their guests, and whilst Croatia isn’t as internet mad as places like Prague and Moscow, you won’t have to look to hard to find internet cafes in the city centre.

Two good cafes are Ch@arlie’s which is in Ljudevita Gaja
4a, and Sublink located at Nikole Tesle 12.

Language – The main spoken language is Croatian, which is spoken by over 95% of the population. Most of the younger generation speak English although you will encounter some places where nobody understands English. Croatian is a Cyrillic alphabet although most street signs are written in both Cyrillic and normal text.

Personal Safety – Zagreb is a relatively safe city. The population have adopted some of the more western laws and customs more so than cities such as Skopje in Macedonia and Belgrade in Serbia. However, you should still exercise caution. It is best to avoid the main station after dark which is a magnet (as it is in most cities) for drug dealers and prostitutes.

Whilst the draw of thousands of England fans in the city will almost certainly bring out the worst elements of Croatia’s football hooligans, the police and security forces will do whatever they can to protect us, so try and avoid confrontation wherever possible.

Post Office – The main post offices can be found at Jurisiceva 13 and Branimirova 4. They are both open from 7am Monday to Friday, and until 3pm on Saturday.

Religion –.Over 85% of the population is Roman Catholic, with the next most followed faith being Orthodox.

Time – Zagreb is one hour ahead of GMT all year round. So the game will kick off locally at 20.45, which will be 19.45 back home.

Visa’s – England fans travelling to Zagreb do not need a visa.

Weather – Zagreb has a continental climate and so experiences hot summer’s (max temperatures reach 35 degrees) and cold winter’s (minimum temperatures often go as low as -10 degrees). In October when England play there expect temperatures maxing around 15 degrees, with the temperature falling towards kick off to around 10 degrees. October is not
one of the wettest months, but still be prepared for rainfall.

Websites – The following websites are a good source of information before you go:-
https://www.cia.gov/cia/publications/factbook/geos/hr.html

http://www.zagreb.hr

http://www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

The Stadium – The Maksimir Maksimiska 128, Zagreb
Capacity: 38,923 All Seater

The Maksimir is classed as the national stadium despite not being the biggest stadium in the country. That honour sits with Hadjuk Split, and their redeveloped Poljud stadium. However, the Maksimir is one of the most atmospheric, especially when Dinamo Zagreb are playing. Dinamo, as with most eastern European countries were the team of the Army and have played at the stadium since their inception in 1945. The first real redevelopment didn’t take place until the mid 1980’s when the stadium was chosen to host the World Student Games of 1987. At that point three of the stands were rebuilt, leaving the old curved North stand as the only remaining part of the ground from the 1940’s.

The stadium today is an odd affair. All four stands are uncovered, with two large two-tier stands, one smaller single tier stand and finally the original curved bank behind the goal. The stadium suffers by having a running track, meaning that some fans behind the goal are quite a way from the action. It has recently been decided that the Maksimir will undergo a significant redevelopment which will take it to over 60,000, and have a retractable roof.
Below is the current artist’s impression of what the final stadium should look like.

Quite what the use of a 60,000 Seater stadium will be for the Croats. Dinamo only ever fill the current capacity for the games versus Hadjuk Split, and the occasional big European game, although it is quite awhile since they reached the Champions League Group Stages. This season saw them lose 5-1 on aggregate to Arsenal in the final preliminary stage in front of a near capacity.

How to get to the Stadium - The easiest way to reach the ground is to jump on tram line 4 from the central station, alighting at Bukovacka which is 7 stops and 15 minutes away. If you coming from the bus station then catch tram line 7 which is ten minutes away. The stadium is just beside the tram
stop. If you fancy a walk then it should take around 30 minutes.

Tickets -  It is anticipated that England will take a full allocation of around 6,000 seats for this game, and that no tickets will be available on the day of the game. This is the first time that England will have played Croatia in Zagreb and it is being viewed as one of the most important games the
national team have ever played. Confidence is relatively high for qualification from the group for Euro 2008, as two teams automatically go through. Croatia will need a big result in this game though, and the locals will certainly be getting right behind the team.

If you are in town to watch a local game then only the big European matches and the Croatian derby between Dinamo and Hadjuk raise the average attendance above the 10,000 mark.

Tickets can therefore be purchased on the day of the game from the booths to the right of the stadium as you approach it from the tram stop. Traditionally, the hardcore Bad Blue Boys take up residence in the north stand, so it may be worth avoiding this stand if you want to watch the football, and not your back.

The Local Teams

Dinamo Zagreb - Zagreb was one of the hotbeds of football in the former states of Yugoslavia, and whilst it hasn’t continued to make an impact on the European stage since gaining independence in 1991, Croatia’s capital city is still a true football hotbed in the Balkans. The number one team in the Croatian capital continues to be Dinamo.

Formerly known as Croatia Zagreb after independence in 1991, the fans petitioned and protested until 2000 when they were renamed back to Dinamo and pride was once again restored. The club were formed in 1945 after the merger of a number of teams in Zagreb. They won their first Yugoslavian championship in 1948 and went on to win two further championships in the next ten years as well as the Yugoslavian cup in 1951.

All of this was quite remarkable considering that they were competing against Partizan Belgrade, the Yugoslav army team, who could buy the country’s best players at will.The club added Yugoslavian cups on a regular basis in the 1960’s, and thus qualifying for the European Cup Winners Cup from inception. In that first tournament in 1960/61 they reached the Semi-Final’s before losing 4-2 to Fiorentina. In 1963/64 they fell at the first hurdle to Celtic, and a year later they went out to Torino in the quarter finals.

Their greatest European moment though came in 1967 when they won the Fairs Cup, beating Leeds United in the final. The team went through a barren run in the 1970’s, apart from a couple of UEFA Cup campaigns of insignificance. However, they bounced back in the 1980’s with two Yugoslavian Cup wins in 1980 and 1983, sandwiching their fourth league title in 1982. Their poor run, though, continued in the European Cup when they exited in the first round, beaten convincingly by Sporting Lisbon.

After Croatia gained its independence from Yugoslavia, Dinamo went head to head with Hadjuk Split for the title of best team in Croatia. Dinamo’s first title came in 1993 with former Osijek goalscorer Goran Vlaovic ending the campaign as top scorer in the whole of Croatia. The luck didn’t follow on a European stage though as the team crashed out of the Champions League to Steau Bucharest in the first round on away goals. Hadjuk took the title in 1994 and 1995 before Otto Baric took over the reigns. With the inspirational coach in charge, Croatia Zagreb won the double in 1996 and 1997. In 1998 Zlatko Kranjcar, the current national team coach, took over the team and repeated the feat, capturing the double in 1998. The following season the club at last made an impact in the Champions League.

After beating Celtic in the qualifying rounds, the team finished second in their group, but did not get one of the two best runners’ up spots that would have taken them into the semifinals. The following season with Zajec taking over from Kranjcar and the team containing wan away players such as Mark Viduka, Dario Simic and Maric they took the title again.Zajec reign lasted but a few months and he was replaced by Ossi Ardiles in a hope to bring some glory in Europe. In his first campaign in 1999, the team made the group stages again but finished the winnable group featuring Man Utd, Marseille and Sturm Graz in bottom place, despite starting the campaign with a 0-0 draw at Old Trafford.

The disappointing campaign signalled the end of Ardiles’s reign and despite the team retaining its title in 2000, its first back under the Dinamo name. Two further Croatian cups were won in 2001 and 2002 but this is where the titles ended. Aborted campaigns have followed in the UEFA Cup each year including an embarrassing 5-1 exit to Fulham in 2003.

However, good times may be returning. The current coach, Josip Kuze has built a good young team that looks like it can compete in Europe. The 5-1 defeat on aggregate to Arsenal in this year’s Champions League was a disappointment but they will hope for a good run in the UEFA Cup and are joint leaders of the league with Split after 5 wins in their first 5 games.

NK Zagreb - Based across the city to Dinamo at the more compact Kranjceviceva NK Zagreb doesn’t have the money or history of their illustrious neighbours, but still compete at the highest level with them. Currently they sit third in the league behind Dinamo and Split after a good and solid start to the season. Last season they also finished in 3rd position.

The club were officially formed in 1903 and were one of the first teams to play professionally in Croatia. Their only major honour was the Croatian National Championship in 2002.

England Fans Arrangements - The FSF will have a temporary office in the city centre in the run up to the game, although official location has yet to be confirmed. They will be available as always to give free advice for fans on a wide variety of subjects as well as distributing copies of Free Lions on the day of the game. EnglandFans will also have some representation close by, dealing with anyone who has to pick up tickets or needs any further assistance whilst we are out there. They will also have the numbers for the duty British Consulate officials should an emergency arise.

How to Get to Zagreb - The best option is reaching Zagreb is still by air. Despite once being a major hub on the Orient Express route through the Balkans, train journeys are still painfully slow. There are regular services from Split (5 hours) as well as the intra-continental services which run
through Zurich (13 hours), Salzburg (7 hours), Ljubljana (2 hours) and Belgrade (4 hours).

These trains terminate at the main railway station (glavni kolodvor), which is located ten minutes walk south of the main square. The railway station has left luggage lockers, restaurants and bars and a nice summer terrace.

Flying to Zagreb - Zagreb Pleso airport (code ZAG) is located around 17km south from the city  centre. Shuttle buses run to the city centre every 30 minutes, starting from 7am, and finishing around 8pm. The journey takes less than 30 minutes and costs 25HRK one-way. A taxi from the airport
should cost less than 150HRK – make sure you negotiate the rate before you start the journey. The shuttle bus drops you outside the main station (Glavini Kolodvor). More details on the airport can be found at http://www.zagreb-airport.hr .

There are currently no direct flights left flying into Zagreb two days prior to the game.

The following flights are due to land on 10th October 2006 and depart 12th October 2006
Airline From Dep       Arr       Dep Arr
Wizzair LTN 08:15 11:25 11:55 13:20 - Return on 13th - £299 return
Swiss Air LHR 06:20 12:55 15:25 21:20 – Via Zurich £259 return
Swiss Air LHR 13:50 21:45 15:25 21:20 – Via Zurich £273 return
Lufthansa LHR 07:25 12:05 09:20 12:30 – Via Munich £275 return
Lufthansa LHR 11:05 16:40 09:20 12:30 – Via Munich £275 return
Air France LHR 06:40 11:45 06:55 10:15 - Via Paris CDG £283 return
Austrian LHR 09:30 14:45 15:25 21:20 - Via Vienna £289 return
Austrian LHR 14:00 20:25 15:25 21:20 - Via Vienna £289 return
Malev LGW 08:40 15:05 10:25 18:10 - Via Budapest £436 return

For up to date details, check out Expedia : Opodo : Ebookers  
 

In terms of other airports, the closest international airport is actually Ljubljana in Slovenia. You can still pick up flights to here for around £175 (with Czech Airlines via Prague), £194 (with Air France via Paris CDG) and £240 direct with Adria Airlines. Easyjet also fly to Ljubljana from London Stansted, as too do Wizzair from London Luton and they have seats still available on the above dates from less than £150. You can then either catch a coach
(approx 6 hours) or get a train, which runs hourly and takes less than 2hours 30minutes.

Easyjet also fly from Luton to Split for around £120 on the Tuesday, back Thursday. Again your best option here is road as the train takes over 8 hours to make the 250 mile journey. Surprisingly British Airways do not offer flights to the Croatian capital, although they do fly daily to Split from London Gatwick. Currently a return flight, out on Tuesday 10th and returning on the 12th will cost £137.

Getting around Zagreb - Zagreb is well served by both Trams and Buses alike. The central area is small enough to be walk able, and if you need to venture further a field a simple 6.5kn ticket will take you to most corners. Be sure to stamp your ticket onboard – fines for being caught without a stamped
ticket, or no ticket at all range from just being thrown off the tram or bus to arrest. The website http://wwww.zet.hr has up to date timetable and route information.

Where to Stay in Zagreb
The tourist office should be able to help you in getting a bed for the night if you haven’t booked anywhere. The main tourist office is located in the main square at Trg Bana Jelacica 11. It is open daily from 08.30am, later at the weekend. The centre is staffed by English speaking staff and can not only help find accommodation, but can also book events and tickets for the theatre. They also sell public transport tickets. Contact them on +385 492
1645 or check out their website at http://www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

The following hotels all have rooms available for the 10th, 11th or 12th October 2006 at the time of going to press. Alternatively EBookers have a selection of Zagreb, city centre hotels, 2 nights from £60 per night

The Westin Hotel – Krsnjavoga 1 (Tel: +389 1 495 20 000)
http://www.westin.com/zagreb

The former Opera House was bought by the Starwood Group in 2003 and opened its doors to the public in late 2004. It has over 400 rooms and offers comfortable reception rooms, a swimming pool and fitness centre, 2 restaurants and a nice bar. All of the rooms have air conditioning and Pay TV. The hotel is located around a fifteen minute walk south of the Main
Square. Double rooms start from £120 although they only have rooms for the 10th October 2006.

Regent Esplanade Hotel – Mihanoviceva 1 (Tel: +389 1 456 66 66)
http://www.regenthotels.com

The Regent is one of the iconic buildings in the city with Art Nouveau exteriors, two wonderful restaurants and 209 smart rooms with Air Conditioning and Pay TV. The hotel used to be a staging post for guests on the Orient Express and it is not hard to take yourself back in time to
when the hotel was one of the most opulent in Europe. It is located within minutes of the main square. Double Rooms start from £148 from the 10th to the 12th October 2006.

Hotel Dubrovnik – Ljudevita Gaja 1 (Tel: +389 1 487 35 55)
http://www.hotel-dubrovnik.htnet.hr

Located on the main square, the Hotel Dubrovnik is iconic in its own way – it’s hard to miss the tall glass structure in amongst the other historic buildings. The hotel has its own Gym and is surprisingly quiet for its busy location. Rooms are spacious and offer Air Conditioning and wireless internet access. The hotel has a good Italian restaurant and a comfortable bar. Double Rooms start from £66 although they only have rooms for the 10th October 2006.

Central Hotel – Branimirova 3 (Tel: +389 1 484 11 22)
http://www.hotel-central.hr

The Central Hotel is located opposite the main railway station, and is one of the first things visitors arriving by rail see of Zagreb. The hotel has undergone major internal renovation work over the past few years and is now a good value location for a few nights visit. The hotel also has a Casino which is open to residents as well as a good value restaurant serving
traditional Croatian cuisine. Double rooms start from £80 and at the moment they have very limited availability for the 11th October 2006.

Aristos – Cebini bb, Buzin (Tel: +389 1 669 59 00)
Http://www.hotel-aristos.hr

If you need to stay close to the airport for an early morning flight then this is the best option. It is located a 5 minute taxi ride away, and a 20 minute journey to the city centre. It has 70 modern rooms with internet access, Pay TV and Air Conditioning, a hairdressers and a good restaurant. Double rooms start from £105 for the 10th to 12th October 2006.

Arcotel Allegra – Branimirova 29 (Tel: +385 1 469 60 00)
http://www.Arcotel.at/allegra

Located a few minutes walk east of the main railway station, the Allegra is the focal point of the new up and coming area of Branimir. The hotel is part of the new shopping and entertainment centre, with lifts taking straight to the action. Rooms are modern, spacious and have wireless internet access. The hotel has a couple of nice bars and a decent restaurant. Double rooms start from £120 for the 10th to 12th October 2006.

Where to Drink and Eat - Zagreb isn’t known for its fine dining and its wild nightlife, and doesn’t have the same type of bars and pubs as its neighbours in Slovenia and Serbia have. The preferred night time drinking activity is more along the lines of sitting in a pavement café drinking coffee or eating
Ice Cream. However, times are a changing and pubs and bars are opening up each week.

The Irish Bar – Maksimirska 75
Close to the stadium, the Irish bar offers the same type of hospitality as you will find all around the world in similar establishments. Food options are a mixture of English/Irish and Croatian. Expect this bar to be rocking in the build up to kick off on the 11th October.

Dobar Zvuk – Ljudevita Gaja 18
Very similar in style, design and atmosphere to the Bohemian bars you find in Prague. Has a wide choice of beers and is not afraid of a bit of loud music.

Hole In One – Vlaska 42 For those missing a dish of Roast Beef or Shepherds Pie, this is the place to head for.

K Pivovari – Ilica 222 A huge beer hall more in the tradition of Germany than the Balkans which has been recently refurbished and has recently celebrated its 110 year anniversary. It is certainly a choice of the locals who come in here and sit at the huge wooden tables. The beer hall used to be part of the Zagreb brewery, and they still brew the fantastic Ozujsko onsite.

Pivnica Medvedgrad – Bozidara Adzije 46 Another good beer hall that brews onsite. Also serves some excellent Croatian food. Opens daily from 10am.

The city still has a number of Casino’s that open their doors to non-members. Be warned that many of them have strict dress codes though. The biggest and best is probably Casino City which is located within the Regent Esplanade Hotel.

Nightclubs are also few and far between, although more recently a few more have opened up. Good new clubs include Brazil at Veslacka bb, Swamp in Trnjanski Nasip bb and Papillon on the Sava riverbank.

In terms of food options, you will find all the usual suspects in the city centre. Croatia’s specialities tend to be very meat based.

If you crave an Indian then head for Maharadza in Opatovina 19, for a Chinese then try China House in Sipanska 16 or for a Pizza go to Atika
which is a 5 minute walk from the stadium.

For traditional Croatian fayre, your options tend to be fairly limited. Menu items include Cevepcici which is a spiced meat pasty (like a Cornish pasty), Mijesan Meso (a mixed grill of meats often including lamb, deer and pork).

The following are all recommended for Croatian cuisine.
Balon – Prisavlje bb – Open daily from 11am.
Jordanovecki Vuglec – Petrova 103 – Open for breakfast as well daily
Kaptol Klub – Kaptol II – located in the Kaptul shopping mall.
Nova Ves Tinca – Nova Ves 88 – Probably the best bet for your money – open from 10am.

What to do in Zagreb -  The tourist information office in Trg Bana Jelacica can help with maps and information of what is on. It is open from 08.30 Monday to Saturday. Zagreb is a very historic city, and is very proud of its Croat roots. To get an idea of the history of the city then just take a walk around the Upper Town which is where the city can trace its roots back to.

The Kaptol is still the religious centre of the city, and this is where you will find the Cathedral, which dates back to the 12th century. The cathedral was damaged in an earthquake in 1880, but has now been restored to its former glory.

In the other part of the upper town (the Gradec) you will find the Parliament building as well as some of the most beautiful buildings in the city. It is worth an hour or two just wandering around this area and stopping for a beer or two in one of the number pavement cafes.

The Lower Town is the commercial hub of the city today and where the major shops, restaurants and bars can be found. Trg Bana Jelacica, or Main Square, is the focal point for the citizens, and it was here that the city celebrated the national team’s run to the semi-final of the World Cup in France in 1998. In the centre of the square you will find a statue to Ban
Jelacic, the 19th Century vicerory, now returned to its historic home after being removed by Yugoslavian leader Tito during the 1960’s as he left it was un-Slavic.

The main shopping street is Vlaska which leads to the Maksimir Park where you will find the zoo and of course the football stadium.

For a bit of culture while you are in Zagreb, don’t miss the Mirmara, located in Rooseveltov trg 5. The museum traces the history both of the city and the country through over 4,000 artifacts and displays. Allow yourself at least half a day to explore the museum fully.

For a more laid back afternoon, stock up on some essentials and jump on tram 8 or 14 to the end of the line where you need to change and get on tram number 15 to Dolje, and head up to Mount Medvednica, which is Zagreb’s national park. Once there, either head for the cable car, or start your 2 hour walk to the summit for some spectacular views of the whole city and beyond. There are a couple of bars and restaurants at the summit as well.

If you want to have a look around the shops or catch a film then head to the Branimir Centre, a few minutes walk east of the Railway station.

The Kings Cross shopping centre, located on Ljubljanska Avenue is also a good option for those who miss Bluewater or Meadowhall.

A little bit of the language
Hello Zdravo  - Goodbye Dovidenja
Please Molim  - Thank You Hvala
Yes Da  - No Ne
Do you speak English? Govorite li Engleski?
I do not understand Croatian Jan e Shvatiti Hrvatski
How much does it cost? Koliko se trosak?
Which way is the…..? Sto je put to?
Where is the …..? Gdje je…?
Train Station Zeljeznicka stanica
Hospital Bolnica
Where are the pubs? Dgje su pubs?
Monday Ponedjeljak Tuesday Utorak
Wednesday Srijeda Thursday Cetvrtak
Friday Petak Saturday Subota
Sunday Nedjelja
Zero Nula  - One Jedan
Two Dva  - Three Tri
Four Cetiri  - Five Pet
Six Sest  - Seven Sedam
Eight Osam  - Nine Devet
Ten Deset  - One Hundred Sto